Schusterlaberl (also Schusterloaberl or Schusterlaibchen) which translates as ‘shoemaker loaves’ are fragrant Austrian rye bread rolls and have always been a favourite of mine. The smell of these freshly baked rye rolls is mesmerising and brings back childhood memories of stepping into the village bakery (now unfortunately closed) in Gilgenberg.
Rye Bread Rolls Recipe (Schusterlaberl)
Full of nostalgic feelings, I’ve been trying to bring the delicious Schusterlaberl back to life in my own kitchen in Edinburgh. Here is my recipe for these unrivalled rye bread rolls. Admittedly, I still have to work on the roughness of the crust, but in terms of flavour and overall taste, I’m happy to say that I have succeeded to evoke the flavours of my childhood memories with the recipe below.
Schusterlaberl are made with both rye and wheat flour. Natural sourdough and yeast are used as leavening aids and spices such as ground coriander seeds, caraway seeds, fennel seeds, and anise seeds give the rolls their wholesome flavour. The rye rolls are characterised by their rustic look, crisp, their crunchy crust and chewy, dense centre.
Day 1 – Sourdough
20g sourdough starter
40g rye flour
40g white wheat flour
80g water, lukewarm
Combine the ingredients for your sourdough in a bowl, cover and leave to mature for approx. 16 hours at room temperature.
Day 2 – Main Dough
100g rye flour
325g white wheat flour
Approx. 250g water, lukewarm
15g malt extract
2g dry yeast
1/2 tbsp ground spices (caraway seeds, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, anise seeds – combine according to personal preference, I like to use a larger part of caraway seeds)
Extra rye flour for shaping
How to make the rye bread rolls (makes 12)
Mix the sourdough prepared the previous day with the other dough ingredients and knead for 15 minutes.
Shape into a ball and leave to rest for 2 hours (in a plastic bowl, covered) until doubled in size. You can also choose to slow-prove the dough in the fridge overnight.
Prepare a clean kitchen towel and dust well with flour.
Deflate the dough and turn it out onto a clean work surface.
Shape into a sausage, divide into 12 pieces (approx. 70 – 80g each) and form into a rough mini boule.
Cover with cling film and rest for 20 minutes to relax the dough.
Now we get to the process called ‘schleifen’ in Austrian baker speak. Here is a great video to show how this is done – http://www.homebaking.at/wachauer-schleifen/ Make a small indent to the bottom side of each piece, dip the bottom side in rye flour and shape in circular movements inside your cupped hand on a clean linen towel. Dip the bottom side in rye flour again and place each of the shaped rolls (rough bottom side down) on the kitchen towel and leave to prove.
Cover again with cling film/plastic (to prevent them from drying out) and leave to prove for approximately 40 minutes. Depending on the temperature in your room, this could take longer.
When still slightly underproved, place the dough rolls on a baking tray lined with baking paper (rough bottom side up this time). Leave enough space between the rolls – they should be at least 5 cm apart as they will rise some more and you don’t want them to touch. Leave to prove for another 20 minutes (or longer depending on the temperature in your room) to complete the proving process.
While the rolls are rising, preheat the oven to 220°C.
Place the baking tray in the oven on the middle rack.
Bake the rolls for approx. 20 minutes until golden brown.
Cool on a wire rack.
Schusterloaberl are best the day they are baked but can be frozen for later (first cool completely, then wrap well). Defrost, then warm through at 180°C for 5 to 10 minutes.
Rye flour is my favourite flour for bread baking. It produces breads with a rich and hearty taste, complex nutty flavours and a moist, dense and chewy texture. 100% pure rye breads are higher in fibre and lower in fat than wheat loaves and therefore have added health benefits. From a practical viewpoint, I also love the longevity of rye loaves. Here are my top four 100% rye bread recipes, all based on sourdough baking.
100% pure rye flour baking notes
There is one thing in all-rye bread baking I don’t enjoy – the sticky dough which is difficult to handle. However, the good thing is that rye gluten isn’t particularly strong and kneading is therefore not required.
For purist reasons, I prefer not to add colouring agents such as molasses, malt, treacle, caramel, coffee or cocoa to achieve that rich, dark colour associated with rye breads.
Having experimented with quite a few 100% rye bread recipes, my favourite loaves use sourdough, no commercial yeast. All recipes below are 100% rye sourdough loaves, without wheat flour. If you haven’t already got a rye sourdough starter, you can easily prepare one from scratch.
My top four 100% rye bread recipes
I use rye flour in most of my bread recipes, it adds great depth of flavour and taste. The following 100% rye bread recipes take this to the next level by using only rye flour.
The recipe I love most requires only four ingredients: rye sourdough starter, rye flour, water and salt. I usually add a bit of Brotgewürz as an optional addition as it enhances the flavour of the loaf.
Cover and keep at room temperature for approx. 16 – 24 hours.
Day 2 – Prepare Dough
In a large bowl, combine 440g of yesterday’s sourdough mixture (keep the remaining sourdough for your next bake), 260g rye flour, 200g lukewarm water and 7g salt (plus 1 large tbsp of Brotgewürz if you like).
Mix thoroughly, place the dough back into the bowl, cover and rest for approx. 30 minutes.
Transfer the dough from the bowl to the tin. This is best done with wet hands and dough scraper. Distribute evenly.
Sprinkle a little rye flour on top, then place the lid on the tin.
Place the tin in the fridge overnight.
Day 3 – Bake
Take the tin out of the fridge and preheat the oven to 240°C.
The dough should have risen considerably – if the dough half-filled the tin on day 2, it should now be close to the top.
Bake at 240°C for 10 minutes, then turn the heat down to 220°C and bake for another 45 minutes or so. If in any doubt, give it a little longer in the oven – rye loaves hold a lot of water.
Cool on a wire rack.
Once completely cooled, wrap in cling film and leave to rest for a day. The flavour of the loaf will develop further in that time and the crumb will improve.
Rye Bread Recipe #2: Dan Lepard’s Sour 100% Rye Bread
Another one of my all-time favourites, this 100% rye bread recipe uses a rye sourdough starter, fine rye flour and a clever gelatinised rye mix (made by mixing boiling water and rye flour) to aid the elasticity of the crumb. It’s a recipe from the book The Handmade Loaf: The Best European and Artisan Recipes for Homemade Bread by Dan Lepard. I ususally add caraway seeds or coriander seeds for extra flavour. Here are the recipe and my baking notes.
Day 1 – Prepare Gelatinised Rye Mix & Sourdough
Prepare a medium bowl and weigh in 60g fine white rye flour. Boil 240g water and cool it to 90°C (I use a Thermapen to check this). Add the water to the bowl and whisk it in. Try to avoid too many lumps by whisking quickly and vigorously. Cover the bowl and leave for 16 – 24 hours (same as the sourdough below).
In another bowl, combine 50g rye sourdough starter with 100g dark rye flour and 100g water. Mix well, then cover and set aside at room temperature for 16 – 24 hours.
Day 2 – Main Dough
In a large bowl, combine 50g cold water with 200g rye sourdough (the rest goes back into the fridge for your next bake). Whisk together.
Add all but 2 tbsp of the gelatinised rye mix into the bowl and whisk in.
Add 300g fine white rye flour, 7g salt and a tbsp of rapeseed oil and mix well. I use a silicone spatula to do this and avoid getting stuck in with my hands – it’s a soft sticky dough.
Prepare a loaf tin (the one I use is 15.2 x 10.2 x 12.7 cm), spread a tbsp of caraway or coriander seeds at the bottom, then – with wet hands – take the dough and put it into the tin. Even out the top and spread the gelatinised rye mix over the top.
Cover with a polythene bag and put into the fridge for 16 – 24 hours.
Day 3 – Bake
Take out the loaf tin from the fridge, the dough will have almost doubled in size.
Preheat the oven to 220°C.
Bake for 50 minutes.
Leave to cool on a wire rack.
Once cold, wrap in kitchen baking parchment, tie well with string and leave for a day before slicing.
The bread tastes great with smoked fish, smoked meats with horseradish or root vegetable soups.
Rye Bread Recipe #3: German-Style Pure 100% Rye Bread Recipe
I bake this 100% rye bread recipe almost every week. It uses an old bread soaker which is popular in German sourdough bread baking.
Day 1 morning – Prepare Sourdough
10g sourdough starter
140g fine rye flour
Combine ingredients in a bowl, cover and keep at room temperature for 16 – 24 hours.
Day 2 morning – Enhance Sourdough
260g sourdough from the day before
200g fine rye flour
Combine ingredients in a bowl, cover and keep at room temperature for 3 hours.
Day 2 morning – Prepare Old Bread Soaker
50g old stale bread (preferably dark sourdough bread)
Soak old bread in a small bowl for 3 hours, then puree with a stick blender.
This is a technique commonly used in German-style bread baking and adds great flavour.
Day 2 afternoon – Prepare Main Dough
610g sourdough (as prepared in the above steps, the remaining 10g of sourdough go back into the fridge for your next bake)
325g dark rye flour
250g fine rye flour
150g pureed bread soaker (as per the above)
2 tbsp fennel or coriander seeds (optional)
Combine the ingredients and mix well.
Place the dough in a bowl, cover and keep at room temperature for approx. 30 minutes.
Butter a large heavy-duty loaf tin (I used a Pullman loaf tin, 33 cm long, 10 cm wide) and sprinkle some crushed fennel or coriander seeds onto the bottom of the pan (these will infuse the bread during baking).
Move the dough from the bowl into the loaf tin and distribute it evenly (best done with wet hands).
Cover the loaf tin with a lid if you are using the Pullman loaf tin. If you don’t have a lid for the loaf tin, place the tin into a polythene plastic bag. Covering it is important to prevent the dough from drying out during the final proof.
Place the covered loaf tin in the fridge overnight – approximately 10 to 12 hours.
Day 3 – Bake
Take the loaf tin out of the fridge. The dough should have visibly risen.
Preheat the oven to 200°C.
Once the oven is preheated, bake for 65 minutes. If you are using a Pullman loaf tin, leave the lid on during the bake. If you are not using a Pullman loaf tin, you can bake the bread without a lid. Leaving the lid on will keep the bread moister but you will be able to achieve great results without the lid as well.
If using a lidded loaf tin, take the lid off for the last 10 minutes of the baking time, to help brown the top crust.
Cool on a wire rack.
Rye Bread Recipe #4: Traditional German 100% Rye Pumpernickel
Finally, taking pure 100% rye bread recipes and baking one step further, try my traditional German pumpernickel recipe, using rye grains and cracked rye instead of flour.